EUR

EUR (Esposizione Univerale Romana) was an ambitious and vast area on the outskirts of Rome that Fascist leader of Italy Benito Mussolini planned to unveil as the setting for the 1942 World's Fair, which would mark the 20th anniversary of his Fascist rule of Italy. Though World War II disrupted these plans, EUR exists today, and is a bustling residential and commercial area, adding a rich layer to the capital's architectural history. It is a really striking and beautiful area, and is really interesting to consider in relation to our preconceptions about what Rome is as a city, as well as its relationship to Classical Antiquity.

We had class here relatively early in the program, and it was really fascinating to see the students' reactions to this place, which is so different from the rest of Rome, yet at present, is very much a living, working part of the edge of the city, not at all a forsaken ruin of the Fascist past.

Mussolini was all about broad streets and grid-like urban spaces with carefully engineered views. In the above photo, we were looking from the building in the next photo, and we could see directly the Palazzo della Civilta Italiana.

This place was on the roof of the building two photos below. It is so sci-fi! Apparently they could project movies on that huge wall and then people would sit on the benches.

At first glance, when considering it's stark simplicity, huge scale and conflicted (/scary) history, what we call Fascist architecture can have a negative connotation. However, in my opinion, the political agenda behind the architecture makes it even more interesting; Mussolini wanted to connect his rule of Italy to the Roman Empire of old while glorifying his regime.

These murals are really interesting. None other of the Fascist/Socialist regimes of the early 20th century embraced Modernism, in fact, most governments pursued purely neo-classical/realist programmes, including the US democracy.





Il Palazzo della Civilta Italiana. The Palace of Italian Civilization.
A people of poets of artists of heroes of saints of thinkers of scientists of navigators of migrants.
This building is incredibly striking and beautiful, very simple and classical, all in white Travertine stone.

You can tell I'm really enthusiastic about EUR. So much of any study or experience of Rome has to do with it's picturesque ruins, cobblestones and baroque buildings, but Rome is a living city with a complex history, and a place like EUR is a refreshing reminder of the multidimensional character of the city.